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It is uncertain when the Japanese sericulture began with the indigenous Yamamai silk moth, but Chinese history indicates that its silk technology and the Bombyx mori reached Japan around 28 BC.

It was worn by fashionable ladies, sometimes as many as twenty kimonos at a time, all made of the thinnest, finest, most transparent silk, giving a rainbow appearance as the coloring of each layer melted into those above and below.

Like the Chinese, silk garments were reserved for the upper class and the ordinary Japanese people dressed in garments that were homespun of hemp and ramie.

The introduction of Buddhism to Japan, sometime after AD, is important in silk history because silks are preserved in the temple treasuries and have been carefully recorded and conserved ever since they were given, either as valued gifts themselves, or as wrappings for precious offerings.

Silk fabrics are still seen as a precious commodity, whether in modern day or history. As trade routes became the highways of ancient times for merchants, artisans and craftsmen to bring their wares, goods, materials, supplies, cultural beliefs and practices from the eastern regions of Asia to Western Europe, a very distinct route emerged that further expanded the role of silk in history.

The Silk Road was named for this specific commodity as these trade routes developed, and the East-West passage brought sericulture to Central Asia and eventually, Western Europe.

The earliest silks discovered along this route date back to BC in the Altai Mountains. While we do not know the antiquity of sericulture outside China, we do know that varieties of silkworms were introduced to Central Asia during the Han period and eventually made their way to the region known as the Iranian Plateau.

Frequently traveling together, silk, spices and rare treasures made their way by land routes through Persia from the Central Asian passages or by ship through the Persian Gulf to the ports at the mouths of the Tigris and Euphrates.

From there, they were transported to Syria, the prime Mediterranean point for dispersal of Eastern luxuries. Silk had traveled to the Mediterranean and Europe from Greek trading posts on the Black Sea, and has been found in the Danube region, embroidered and woven into garments of the Hallstatt culture of the 6th century BC, and in several other early sites.

The Parthian period BC indicates garments decorated with silk cord and patterns in silk fabrics were dominated by the pomegranate, the symbol of the Water Goddess Anahita.

The Parthians gave way to the Sassanian dynasty, which worked hard to establish their own silk industry.

Their weavers created highly distinctive designs and their influence can be traced through the centuries to the present day. As knowledge of silk spread westward through the centuries, almost every country attempted sericulture and attempted to develop silk weaving.

The luxury, beauty, refinement and attraction of silk are such that other countries over the centuries were focused on developing their own silk production as a means of strengthening their own trade.

While documented evidence proves that silk was imported and woven in ancient Roman times, it appears that the earliest attempts of sericulture in Italy took place in the Po Valley in the tenth century and in the area around Salerno during the first half of the eleventh century.

The essentials of silk processing were known and used in the Byzantine and Islamic empires, and it seems that in southern Italy, most of the work of mulberry culture was carried out by Jewish, Greek and Arab immigrants who brought their knowledge of silk production from the Near East.

The merchants and weavers of Lucca, Venice and Florence, Italy controlled the silk trade and spectacularly developed silk weaving from the fourteenth to the sixteenth century during the Renaissance Period.

Cultural developments and political strength were expressed in the beauty of evolving designs and new steps in the development of weaving.

Italy still maintains a strong silk production today. Fashion, the sustaining force of French silks, drew silk weavers from Italy and the French silk industry was founded on Italian expertise.

The early woven silks produced in France had strong resemblances to that of the Italy, however in time, France began to produce their own distinctive weaves and patterns.

Many Western European countries attempted during the past several centuries to produce silk by developing silk weaving, and despite climate constraints, have attempted sericulture.

The attraction and power and economics of silk are such that at one time or another in history these countries desired to strengthen their trade exports of this valuable textile.

Denmark, Sweden, Spain, Russia, Ireland, Germany and England and more have all been part of the excitement of the silk industry and at present, France, Germany, Italy, Switzerland and the United Kingdom currently maintain production, with Italy being a producer on a world-scale market, behind China and India.

While the Chinese lost their monopoly on silk production, they were able to re-establish themselves as major silk supplier during the Tang dynasty , and to industrialize their production in a large scale during the Song dynasty.

After the start of the Crusades , techniques of silk production began to spread across Western Europe. They took the crops and silk production infrastructure, and deported all the workers to Palermo , thereby causing the Norman silk industry to flourish.

Many also chose to settle in Avignon to furnish the popes of Avignon. The sudden boom of the silk industry in the Italian state of Lucca , starting in the 11th and 12th centuries was due to much Sicilian , Jewish, and Greek settlement, alongside many other immigrants from neighbouring cities in southern Italy.

Gaining momentum, in order to satisfy the rich and powerful bourgeoisie 's demands for luxury fabrics, the cities of Lucca , Genoa , Venice and Florence were soon exporting silk to all of Europe.

In there were 84 workshops and at least craftsmen in Florence alone. Silk was made using various breeds of lepidopterans , both wild and domestic.

While wild silks were produced in many countries, there is no doubt that the Chinese were the first to begin production on such a large scale, having the most effective species for silk production, the Bombyx mandarina and its domesticated descendant B.

Chinese sources claim the existence of a machine to unwind silkworm cocoons in The cocoons were placed in a large basin of hot water, the silk would leave the cauldron by tiny guiding rings, and would be wound onto a large spool , thanks to a backwards and forward motion.

The spinning wheel , in all likelihood moved by hand, was known by the beginning of the Christian era. The first accepted image of a spinning wheel appears in There is an image of a silk spinning machine powered by a water wheel that dates to More information is known about the looms used.

The Nung Sang Chi Yao , or Fundamentals of Agriculture and Sericulture , compiled around , is rich with pictures and descriptions, many pertaining to silk.

It speaks of two types of loom that leave the worker's arms free: the drawloom , which is of Eurasian origin, and the pedal loom which is attributed to East Asian origins.

There are many diagrams originate in the 12th and 13th centuries. When examined closely, many similarities between Eurasian machines can be drawn.

Since the Jin dynasty, the existence of silk damasks has been well recorded, and since the 2nd century BC, four-shafted looms and other innovations allowed the creation of silk brocades.

The high Middle Ages saw continued use of established techniques for silk manufacture without any changes to speak of, neither in materials nor in tools used.

Between the 10th and 12th centuries, small changes began to appear, though the changes of the 13th century were much larger and more radical.

In a short time, new fabrics began to appear; hemp and cotton each also had their own particular techniques of manufacture. Known since Roman times, silk remained a rare and expensive material.

The 13th century saw an already changing technology undergo many dramatic changes. It is possible that, as with in England at the end of the 18th century, advances in the textile industry were a driving force behind advances in technology as a whole.

Silk indeed occupies a privileged place in history on account of this. At the start of the 13th century, a primitive form of milling the silk threads was already in use.

The instruments used were further perfected in Bologna between and From the start of the 14th century, many documents allude to the use of devices that were quite complex.

The reel , originally developed for the silk industry, now has multiple uses. The earliest surviving depiction of a European spinning wheel is a panel of stained glass in the Cathedral of Chartres.

It is possible that the toothed warping machine was created by the silk industry; it allowed the warp to be more uniform and allowed the warp to be of a longer length.

Starting at the end of the 14th century, no doubt on account of the devastation caused mid-century by the Black Death , there was a general shift towards less expensive techniques.

Many things which would have earlier been completely forbidden by the guilds were now commonplace using low quality wool, carding , etc.

In the silk industry, the use of water-powered mills grew, and by the 15th century, the loom designed by Jean le Calabrais saw nearly universal use.

Italian silk cloth was very expensive, as much a result of the cost of the raw material as of the production costs.

The craftsmen in Italy proved unable to keep up with the exigencies of French fashion, which continuously demanded lighter and less expensive materials.

Nevertheless, Italian silk long remained among the most prized, mostly for furnishings and the brilliant colours of the dyes.

Following the example of the wealthy Italian city-states of the era, such as Venice , Florence , and Lucca , which had become the center of the luxury-textile industry, Lyon obtained a similar function in the French market.

In , King Louis XI decided to develop a national silk industry in Lyon and called a large number of Italian workers, mainly from Calabria.

The drawloom that appeared in those years in France was called loom by Jean Le Calabrais. In the face of protests by the Lyonnais, he conceded and moved the silk fabrication to Tours , but the industry in Tours stayed relatively marginal.

In , the king granted a monopoly on silk production to the city of Lyon. Starting in the 16th century, Lyon became the capital of the European silk trade, notably producing many reputable fashions.

Thousand of workers, the canuts , devoted themselves to the flourishing industry. In the middle of the 17th century, over 14, looms were used in Lyon, and the silk industry fed a third of the city's population.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, Provence experienced a boom in sericulture that would last until the first world war, with much of the silk shipped north to Lyon.

Viens and La Bastide-des-Jourdans are two of the communes of Luberon that profited the most from mulberry plantations that have since disappeared.

England under Henry IV was also looking to develop a silk industry, but no opportunity arose until the revocation of the Edict of Nantes the s, when hundreds of thousands of French Huguenots , many of whom were skilled weavers and experts in sericulture, began immigrating to England to escape religious persecution.

Some areas, including Spitalfields saw many high-quality silk workshops spring up, their products distinct from continental silk largely by the colors used.

Many envisioned starting a silk industry in the British colonies in America , starting in , under the reign of King James I of England. The silk industry in the colonies never became very large.

Likewise, silk was introduced to numerous other countries, including Mexico, where it was brought by Cortez in Only rarely did these new silk industries grow to any significant size.

The start of the Industrial Revolution was marked by a massive boom in the textile industry, with remarkable technological innovations made, led by the cotton industry of Great Britain.

In its early years, there were often disparities in technological innovation between different stages of fabric manufacture, which encouraged complementary innovations.

For example, spinning progressed much more rapidly than weaving. The silk industry, however, did not gain any benefit from innovations in spinning, as silk is naturally already a thread.

Making silk, silver, and gold brocades is a very delicate and precise process, with each colour needing its own dedicated shuttle.

In the 17th and 18th centuries progress began to be made in the simplification and standardization of silk manufacture, with many advances following one after another.

Bouchon and Falcon 's punched card loom appeared in , later improved on by Jacques de Vaucanson. Later, Joseph-Marie Jacquard improved on the designs of Falcon and Vaucanson, introducing the revolutionary Jacquard loom , which allowed a string of punched cards to be processed mechanically in the correct sequence.

Punched cards themselves were carried over to computers, and were ubiquitous until their obsolescence in the s. From embroidery became highly mechanized due to the effectiveness of the Jacquard loom.

The mechanism behind the Jacquard loom even allowed complex designs to be mass-produced. The Jacquard loom was immediately denounced by workers, who accused it of causing unemployment , but soon it had become vital to the industry.

The loom was declared public property in , and Jacquard was rewarded with a pension and a royalty on each machine. In there were a total of Jacquard looms in Lyon alone.

The canuts occupied the city of Lyon, and would not relinquish it until a bloody repression by the army, led by Marshal Soult. A second revolt, similar to the first, took place in The first silkworm diseases began to appear in , creating an epidemic.

The epidemic grew to a massive scale, and after having attacked the silkworms, other viruses began to infect the mulberry trees.

The chemist Jean-Baptiste Dumas , French minister of agriculture, was charged with stopping the epidemic. In face of sericulturers' call for help, he asked Louis Pasteur to study the disease, starting in In he changed his view, and measures were enacted that caused the disease to decline.

Nevertheless, the increase in the price of silkworm cocoons and the reduction in importance of silk in the garments of the bourgeoisie in the 19th century caused the decline of the silk industry in Europe.

The opening of the Suez Canal in and the silk shortage in France reduced the price of importing Asian silk, particularly from China and Japan.

Starting from the Long Depression — , Lyonnais silk production had become totally industrialized, and hand looms were rapidly disappearing.

In CE the Byzantine emperor Justinian obtained the first silkworm eggs. He had sent two Nestorian monks to Central Asia and they smuggled silkworm eggs to him hidden in rods of bamboo.

That moment marks beginning of silk industry in the Eastern Roman Empire. Techniques of silk production began to spread across Western Europe with Crusades.

In time changing technology advanced the textile industry. Italian silk cloth was very expensive so French fashion, which continuously demanded lighter and less expensive materials began making silk locally.

In the king granted a monopoly on silk production to the city of Lyon and it became the capital of the European silk trade. By the 17th century over 14, looms were in use in Lyon.

While the start of the Industrial Revolution marked a massive boom in the textile industry, silk industry did not gain any benefit from innovations in spinning because silk is naturally already a thread.

Progress was made by simplification and standardization of silk manufacture and with inventing of the revolutionary Jacquard loom which could be programmed.

Decline in the European silk industry started in with first silkworm diseases which increased the price of silkworm cocoons.

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Not all countries and regions were as meticulous in their practices of recording and collecting details of their cultures; making the true history of silk somewhat difficult to discern.

Most historians and archeologists, however, would agree that the practices and traditions of silk evolved in ancient China. Sericulture, the process of raising silk worms for the production of silk, is credited to China and dates back to BC in Zhejiang where the earliest excavated silk was discovered in a group of ribbons, threads and woven fragments, all dyed red.

The Chinese suggest, however, that the discovery of silk was during the reign of the Yellow Emperor BC with a romanticized story of Lady Hsi-Ling, wife of the Yellow Emperor Huang-Ti, observing the effect of her hot tea on a cocoon which accidentally dropped from a mulberry tree into her cup!

Although she is regarded as the Lady of the Silkworms, modern carbon-dating methods have made possible a more accurate idea of time scale, which credits Fo Xi, the first Chinese Emperor with teaching the Chinese people to cultivate mulberry trees and to raise silkworms, which feed on the leaves of these trees.

The original wild ancestor of this cultivated species is believed to be Bombyx mandarina Moore, a silk moth living on the white mulberry tree, and unique to China.

The silkworm of this particular moth produces a thread whose filament is smoother, finer and rounder than that of other silk moths and can be reeled as a long, continuous and stronger thread than the filament produced from other species of moths.

During the Shang dynasties BC , as trade opened westward, silk production expanded to other cultures, utilizing other types of cocoons.

During this time period, pictograms, which were inscribed on oracle bones and tortoiseshell, often depicted sericulture and the importance of silk.

Stories of offerings being made to the Silkworm Goddess indicate the regard for this highly esteemed textile. Reeling silk and spinning were considered household duties for women during this period, while weaving and embroidery were carried out in workshops as well as the home.

This all-encompassing philosophy has a relevance to the subject of silk since there was a hierarchy which influenced everything.

Chinese history indicates that rules were drawn up regulating clothes, colors, fabrics and decoration, and punishments were meted out if these were violated.

All motifs and colors had symbolic significance and were not merely decorative. Silk was considered the premier fabric of the upper class for their garments and their hangings, upholstery, throne seats and backs.

Before we reach the destinations of the Silk Road around the Mediterranean, there is another ancient source of sericulture to consider that has been, and continues to be, a major contributor to the history of silk: India.

Known for famous textured silks tussahs , early textured silks woven from wild cocoons are referred to as bark cloth and in the region around Mirzapur in Uttar Pradesh, tussahs are still known by this name.

Although most of the wild moths must break the filaments of their cocoons to escape, one tussah moth, Antheraea pernyl, leaves an opening in the cocoon that it seals with sericin, so that the filament remains intact.

A Buddhist monk is credited with bringing the Chinese techniques of silk-reeling to India during the Gupta period AD It is presumed that he brought the eggs of the Bombyx mori, for the technique of reeling is only applicable to that particular type of cocoon.

Records of temple donations given as offerings from silk weavers for increased silk production indicate that the weavers from India were eager to expand their craft.

The customs surrounding the care and gathering of wild cocoons have become ritualized and have been so for thousands of years.

Silk was deemed by the Hindus to be a pure substance, so pure that it was not considered necessary to wash it before ceremonial use.

Orthodox Vaishnavite Hindus and Jains abhor the taking of life, and certain holy centers produce a silk known as matka mutka from the cocoons of moths which have completed their cycle and broken out of their cocoons.

Since no killing is involved, this silk is considered unpolluted and suitable for the garments and ropes of the sacred processional chariots and for the ritual swings used during the Krishna festival of Sawan.

India is credited with developing the art of draping cloth, exemplified in the sari, which, although not the only form of Hindu feminine dress, may be thought to epitomize India internationally.

The basic sari is a length of unsewn material that is draped, with over a hundred variations of doing so and regionally dictated decoration.

A great deal of silk is produced and processed in southern India, and saris from the south are made of rich, heavy silk. India is a vast repository of ancient motifs, techniques and ideas and is unique among silk-producing countries in the rich variety of silks it produces.

India ranks second, after China, among mulberry silk producers and the largest proportion of this silk is produced in Karnataka. India is also the second largest producer of tussah silk.

Sericulture is home-based in India as it is in China, and the low cost of labor contributes largely to the commercial strength of both countries.

In recent years, government-supported bodies have worked hard to promote the revival of hand skills in danger of dying out, and western designers have turned to India for special textile finishes and embroidery details.

During the Shang dynasties BC , as trade opened westward, silk production expanded to other cultures, utilizing other types of cocoons and India and China linked East and West through its silks.

Around the first century AD, it is documented that along the East-West trade routes that connected India with the Near East and ultimately with the Mediterranean, Indian traders were actively importing Chinese silks and exporting Indian wild silks and fine cotton muslins along these perilous land and sea routes where many lives and cargoes were lost.

It is uncertain when the Japanese sericulture began with the indigenous Yamamai silk moth, but Chinese history indicates that its silk technology and the Bombyx mori reached Japan around 28 BC.

It was worn by fashionable ladies, sometimes as many as twenty kimonos at a time, all made of the thinnest, finest, most transparent silk, giving a rainbow appearance as the coloring of each layer melted into those above and below.

Like the Chinese, silk garments were reserved for the upper class and the ordinary Japanese people dressed in garments that were homespun of hemp and ramie.

The introduction of Buddhism to Japan, sometime after AD, is important in silk history because silks are preserved in the temple treasuries and have been carefully recorded and conserved ever since they were given, either as valued gifts themselves, or as wrappings for precious offerings.

Silk fabrics are still seen as a precious commodity, whether in modern day or history. As trade routes became the highways of ancient times for merchants, artisans and craftsmen to bring their wares, goods, materials, supplies, cultural beliefs and practices from the eastern regions of Asia to Western Europe, a very distinct route emerged that further expanded the role of silk in history.

Many women were employed on the farms of silkworms. Silk was considered a luxury item and silk became very popular among high society.

Popularity was such that laws were made to regulate and limit use of silk to the members of the imperial family. That rule stayed in power for over millennia.

In time other classes of Chinese society were allowed to wear silk. Silk was not used just for clothing. Paper was also made out of silk and it was the first type of luxury paper.

Again its worth became more valuable and it was used as pay for government officials and compensation to citizens who were particularly worthy.

The length of the silk cloth became a monetary standard in China. In CE the Byzantine emperor Justinian obtained the first silkworm eggs. He had sent two Nestorian monks to Central Asia and they smuggled silkworm eggs to him hidden in rods of bamboo.

That moment marks beginning of silk industry in the Eastern Roman Empire. Techniques of silk production began to spread across Western Europe with Crusades.

In time changing technology advanced the textile industry. Italian silk cloth was very expensive so French fashion, which continuously demanded lighter and less expensive materials began making silk locally.

In the king granted a monopoly on silk production to the city of Lyon and it became the capital of the European silk trade.

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